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How to Install Replacement Windows

Plastic Shims Work Great to Hang Replacement Windows

Installing replacement windows can be a great DIY way to improve the insulation and value of your home. These instructions are for situations where the window frames are in good enough condition that you don’t need to strip the window down to the studs. If the frames are in good condition, you can simply install a slightly smaller window into the existing frame, making this an easier DIY than a full frame installation. This article assumes you’ve already removed the old window and prepped the opening. Here’s how to install replacement windows:

Order Your New Windows

You’ll need to measure the opening of your existing frame to determine what size window you should order. Open the window and measure from the lowest point to the top of the frame. Because things move over time, measure it on either side and the middle, measure the width too, top, middle, and bottom. The smallest measurement is the size you should order for your windows, otherwise it might not fit. Order the window ½ to ¾  inches smaller than the opening, this allows enough room for adjustments, caulk, insulation, etc. 

How to Install Replacement Windows

  • Clean the opening: Remove any debris, using a shop vacuum cleaner to remove any dust, or wipe it down with a slightly damp cloth if you don’t have a shop vac.
  • Prep the Sill: Take flashing tape and cut it the length of the window sill. Place it so that it covers the bottom ledge of the interior side of the window, this is important for waterproofing. Carefully place it so that it is fully flush in the corners. Using a level check that the sill is level. If it bows use hard/rigid Wobble Wedge® plastic shims to bring the sill up to level. Once the plastic shims are in place and you’ve verified it’s level, screw each plastic shim in place (you can use the pre-drilled holes in Wobble Wedges®) and use more flashing tape to hold the plastic shims in place.
  • Dry fit the window: there should be a small opening all the way around the window.
  • Caulk it: Using an elastomeric caulk (it will be flexible and expand/contract with the seasons giving you a good seal) apply a ⅜-inch bead all the way around the exposed inner face of the exterior casings. Apply two beads of caulk along the windowsill (bottom).
  • Put the window in place: First put the bottom of the window in position and then tilt the top of the window into place. Press it firmly against the caulk. Hold it in place with hard/rigid Wobble Wedge® plastic shims at all of the pre-drilled frame screw holes. Screw through the pre-drilled holes, and through the shims. Don’t tighten the screws all the way so that you can do the next step.
Hold the window in place with plastic shims.
  • Check the position: Make sure that the sashes sit evenly in the frame. If there are uneven gaps, position a hard/rigid Wobble Wedge® plastic shim at the meeting rails (where the sashes meet when the window is closed) to make the spacing even. Verify that the window is plumb, level and square (be sure to measure diagonally to check for square). Also make sure that the window opens and closes properly. Adjust around the edges of the window with hard/rigid plastic shims. After all measurements are right, score and snap the Wobble Wedge® plastic shims to remove excess. Finish tightening the screws.
  • Fill the gaps: From the outside, gaps around the window that are less than ¼ inch wide can be filled with the same elastomeric caulk used earlier. If the gaps are larger than ¼ inch, prefill them with backer rod weatherstripping, and then caulk. For gaps inside you can use a minimally expanding foam or the elastomeric caulk to fill the gaps.
  • Last steps: Reinstall the stops or add new ones. Finally you’re ready to prime and paint or stain the window sash and frame! You’ve now learned how to install replacement windows! Congrats!
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Fix 3 Common Issues with Planter Boxes

Use plastic shims to fix 3 common issues with planters

Plastic Shims will Help Your Planter Garden Look Beautiful

Spring planting season is a great time to build and fill planter boxes! Flowers are such a nice reminder of the rejuvenation of spring and summer. If you’re going to build your own planter boxes we have a tip for getting them squared up. We also explain how Wobble Wedges® can help with planter drainage. And how to use plastic shims to keep window boxes level and from scraping your siding. Here’s how to fix 3 common issues with planter boxes.

Fill Gaps When Building Your Own Planter Boxes

Most wood is warped, it’s just what it naturally wants to do. So when building your own planter boxes, you might discover that it’s harder to get them squared up than expected. If there’s a gap between two of the boards, you can always place a plastic shim in between to help them meet. Wood shims that you buy at the home improvement store aren’t treated. So they can rot and deteriorate when in contact with water outside. Wobble Wedge® plastic shims won’t rot, warp or be affected by water. This makes them a great option for outdoor projects, like building planter boxes. Use our plastic shims to fill gaps, and bring boards up to level, making it easy to get beautiful planters for your flowers and vegetables.

Lift Boxes for Drainage

It’s important for planter boxes to drain so that your plant’s roots aren’t sitting in water. If the planters are located on concrete or decking the bottoms might not be able to wick moisture away. An easy solution is to take two BigGap™ hard/rigid Wobble Wedge® plastic shims in a “flat stack” (see below image). Place the shims under each corner of the planter to lift it .48in off the ground. This will allow for the planter to drain and create air flow. If you’d like this solution to be permanent, you can screw the plastic shims to the bottom of the planter, creating feet that will stay in place. Place screws on either end of the plastic shims, using the pre-drilled holes to make it easy.

Two BigGap™ wedges stacked tapered end to wide end to make a flat stack

Level Under-window Planter Boxes and Protect Your Siding

If you have under-window planters they can sometimes lean away from the house too much, making the soil come pouring out when you water. Depending on how the boxes are attached to your house, you can wedge BigGap™ plastic shims between the house and the box to bring it up to level. The weight of the box can hold the plastic shims in place, or you can screw them into position. You can also use our plastic shims to keep the window box from rubbing against your siding. This works well if the window box is removable. Use some soft/flexible Wobble Wedge® plastic shims to act as a buffer. Place them between the box and the siding, and use the weight of the box to hold them in place. This is an easy solution to protect your house from scuff marks on the siding.

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Wobble Wedge®: The History of Plastic Shims

Plastic shim

What Led Us to the First Patented Plastic Shim with Interlocking Ridges

The history of shims starts long before plastic was around. In fact shims or wedges are some of the oldest technology that humans developed. Early shims were made from stone, wood, antlers, and various other natural materials. But modern times call for modern materials, and we needed a solution that didn’t deteriorate or slide around when stacked. So we developed the Wobble Wedge® plastic shim with interlocking ridges. And now over 30 years after it was first created, our plastic shim is still the leader in shim technology.

When Did Humans Develop the Shim?

Shims or wedges are considered one of the six “simple machines” developed by early humans. This list includes the lever, wheel and axle, pulley, screw, and inclined plane. Shims have been around since the stone age, and even pre-date the invention of the wheel. Bronze wedges were used in quarries in Ancient Egypt circa 3,000BC to break and shape rock during mining. There is also evidence that Native Americans used antler wedges to build canoes and dwellings. They also used stone wedges to make tools such as axes and knives (both of which are types of wedges themselves). 

Why Shim Technology Needed New Ideas

With thousands of years of development, interestingly wedges have mostly stayed the same. The most common types of shims are smooth and made of metal or wood. These have their advantages and disadvantages. Metals can be very strong, taking a lot of force, but they can also rust, degrade, and stain other materials when in contact with water. Metal is also quite expensive, and not easily manipulated. Wooden shims on the other hand are cheap, and easily manipulated and shaped. But wood can also warp, rot, and stain other materials when water is present. Both of these options work in certain situations, but they have limitations.

Plastic Shims with interlocking ridges

A New, Modern Shim for Stability

Living in a 115 year old home that didn’t have a level floor board in it, meant all of our furniture wobbled and listed. We decided that we needed a solution that offered stability. Stacking metal, wood, or plastic shims that were available at the time always resulted in the shims slipping and not staying in place. Shims needed some way to grip that would allow them to stack safely and remain firmly where you needed them. This is why we decided to invent the Wobble Wedge®.

The First Patented Plastic Shim with Interlocking Ridges

Wobble Wedges® were invented in 1985 to create a truly modern plastic shim that could eliminate the issues of other shims that were in the market at the time. We designed Wobble Wedges® as an interlocking modular system of tapered shims. The interlocking ridges allowed Wobble Wedge® plastic shims to stack on top of each other. Each plastic shim was designed to resist movement from all directions, no sliding side to side or forward and back. This allowed the Wobble Wedge® plastic shim to stay where you put it, be that gripping a surface or gripping another Wobble Wedge®. We didn’t set out to get patents, but ultimately our designs earned 2 patents for our interlocking ridges. 

Wobble Wedge®, the Most Versatile Modern Plastic Shim

Wobble Wedges® are made from plastic because it won’t rot, warp or cause discoloration when in contact with water. It’s also cheap, durable, and allows us to make plastic shims in both hard/rigid and soft/flexible options. Our hard/rigid plastic shims can take +2,000lbs of force, while the soft/flexible versions are strong and cushioned enough to use with delicate porcelain. We also designed the Wobble Wedge® plastic shim in 4 sizes with the same interlocking ridges so that you can use all 4 sizes together. Wobble Wedges® are equally effective at stabilizing a wobbly restaurant table, installing a toilet or leveling a backyard fountain as they are in shimming aluminium aircraft panels on an industrial assembly line.

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Plastic Shims for Outside Projects

Wobble Wedges® Make the Ideal Outdoor-Use Plastic Shims

Outdoor projects need to stand up to the elements, and if you need shims for outside, your best bet is a plastic shim. Wobble Wedges® are the perfect shim for everything from installing precast concrete to stabilizing potted plants. Made from sturdy, weather-proof plastic, our shims come in both hard/rigid and soft/flexible plastics, and 4 sizes. This makes Wobble Wedges® versatile and the ideal plastic shims for outside use.

Plastic Wedges for Deck Stair Installation

When installing deck stairs there is a lot of math involved, and sometimes you’ll need to correct for a miscalculation. Plastic shims offer a great solution. If you need to adjust the tread tilt or step height on your stairs, or fix the angle where the stringers meet the deck, reach for a plastic shim. Read how Wobble Wedges® will help with these issues in our blog “Why Use Plastic Shims to Level Deck Stairs.”

Shim and Clean Your Grill

Having a level grill is important for safety; instability plus flames isn’t a good combination. Use Wobble Wedges® to level and stabilize your grill on your patio or in your yard. They also work as chock blocks to keep castors from rolling. And a hard/rigid plastic shim works great for scraping off gunk that’s stuck to your grill. Read more in our blog “Stabilize Your Grill with Wobble Wedges®.”

Showing a wheel on a grill with two Wobble Wedge plastic shims to stop the wheel from rolling, ie chock blocks

Stabilize Patio Furniture and Keep Your Table Umbrella in Place

Old deck boards and uneven concrete can mean wobbling furniture while you’re sitting on your deck or patio. As with indoor furniture, Wobble Wedges® make great furniture levelers for your outdoor needs too. And if you have a table umbrella that spins or moves out of position, a soft/flexible Wobble Wedge® can keep it in place. Learn how in our blog “How to Stop Wobbling Patio Furniture.”

Hide Outdoor Electrical Cords

Electrical cords that aren’t tucked away look unsightly and easily become tripping hazards. There are three ways that Wobble Wedge® plastic shims can help solve this problem. Use them to tuck cords away across doorways, around siding, and even to hold cords in place along eaves. Read how in our blog “Hide Electrical Cords Outside.”

plastic shims used to wedge an electrical cord under siding.

Level and Lift Potted Plants

Whether you’re moving indoor plants outside for summer or planting beautiful flowers in outdoor planters, sometimes you’ll need to level them. Your plants will love the fresh air and sunshine, but if they wobble they can be at risk of falling over, breaking your planter and making a mess. Wobble Wedges® are great for stabilizing your pots outside. Use them to lift your planters so they can drain more easily, preventing root rot. Learn more on our blog “How to Stop Wobbling Patio Furniture.”

Concrete Projects in the Backyard

If you’re working with concrete you shouldn’t use metal or wooden shims. This is because they can discolor the concrete over time with water exposure (unless you live in a very arid climate this is bound to happen). Wobble Wedge® plastic shims are perfect for building a precast concrete wall, creating a precast concrete walkway with paving stones, or installing a concrete fountain. Our plastic shims won’t discolor, warp, deteriorate or affect concrete, which makes them the best plastic shim for the job.

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How to Fix a Creaking Bed Frame

Use Wobble Wedge plastic shims to fix a creaking bed frame.

Don’t Let a Noisy Bed Frame Keep You Up at Night!

A noisy bed frame can make the relaxation needed for sleep difficult to reach. Don’t let creaking and squeaking keep you awake at night! There are several ways to fix a creaking bed frame, from tightening screws to shimming a loose foot. Here are a few ways to troubleshoot why your bed frame is making a racket.

Tighten Screws or Bolts

The most obvious answer to fix a creaking bed frame is to check that all of the screws or bolts holding the bed frame together are tight. If they are loose they can cause the different pieces of the frame to rub against each other, causing creaking. And if you have a pesky screw that won’t tighten, you can put a washer on it to hopefully fill the gap. In case that isn’t possible (for instance if it’s stripped), you can take soft/flexible Wobble Wedge® plastic shims and wedge them between the two pieces of the frame that the screw is holding together. The soft plastic will fill the gap and cushion the two pieces so that they won’t rub against each other.

Place a Wobble Wedge plastic shim between the two pieces that are moving.

Wedge it!

Wooden bed frames might not have many screws or bolts that could cause the issue. So one option is to place soft/flexible Wobble Wedge® plastic shims in between the mattress and the frame. Locate the spot that’s causing the noise and place our soft plastic shims as needed to dampen the creak. The soft plastic will act as a cushion, keeping the mattress and frame from making contact. You can also place soft/flexible Wobble Wedges® around the slats if they are causing the issue. Use the plastic shims to pad the wooden slats from making contact with the rest of the frame. 

Check the Feet and Legs

Don’t forget to check the feet and legs of the bed frame, as they can be the culprits too! If the leg is loose and can’t be tightened, shim the space between the leg and the frame with a soft plastic Wobble Wedge®. Depending on how large of a gap, you could use a Mini or a Standard wedge. A bed frame leg that lifts off the floor can be noisy too. So slip a Wobble Wedge® under the leg to keep it from rocking. If the foot of the frame is moving around this can also make noise; place a soft Wobble Wedge® plastic shim under the foot. The patented interlocking ridges of Wobble Wedges® can grip the flooring and keep the foot in place.

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Plastic Shims for DIY Projects

Plastic Shims for DIY Projects

The Versatility of Wobble Wedges® Makes Them Perfect for DIY Projects

Doing a project yourself can be a great way to save money and learn new skills. A necessity when tackling a DIY project is having the right tools. Wobble Wedge® plastic shims work great for DIY projects since they are durable and water resistant. Because of this they can be used for indoor and outdoor projects without issue. Read on to learn how Wobble Wedges® are the perfect plastic shims for DIY Projects.

Why use Wobble Wedge® Plastic Shims for DIY Projects?

Wobble Wedges® are made from a durable plastic that won’t be affected by moisture, so they won’t rot, deteriorate, or cause discoloration. They come in two types, hard/rigid and soft/flexible plastics, as well as 3 sizes BigGap™, Standard, and Minis. Wobble Wedges® also have patented interlocking ridges so they can be safely stacked to whatever height you need. In addition to the bigger projects we mention below, they can be used for smaller tasks too. Like spreading glue evenly, or removing gunk from surfaces. The hard and soft versions can also work together to find even more uses.

Plastic Shim Pack

Kitchen Projects

There are lots of ways to use Wobble Wedges® in the kitchen, from leveling heavy appliances to tilting your dish rack. But if you want to tackle something a little bigger, like say installing new base cabinets in your kitchen. Wobble Wedge plastic shims are perfect for this job too. You can also use our plastic shims when installing and leveling a new countertop in your kitchen. 

Bathroom Projects

Wobble Wedge® toilet shims are ideal for bathroom projects because they are unaffected by water. The soft/flexible plastic versions are perfect for porcelain because they give support while also cushioning the delicate material. They can be used as toilet shims for fixing a wobbling toilet or to install a new toilet. They can also be used for DIY bathroom remodels, like installing a new bathtub or shower enclosure. If you need to install a new bathroom vanity, our plastic shims come in handy for that task too!

Yard Projects

Outdoor projects need to withstand all kinds of weather. Our plastic tapered shims won’t rot, and won’t deteriorate out in the elements. Wooden shims can’t handle water like our plastic shims, remember water + wood = rot. So don’t risk it, and use Wobble Wedge® plastic shims for all of your outdoor projects. Wobble Wedges® are ideal for work with precast concrete, like building a precast concrete wall or putting in a precast concrete walkway. They can also be used while installing a concrete fountain, a great way to add the beautiful sounds of running water to your garden. Wobble Wedges® can help with installing deck stairs; and if you need to run electrical cords outside they can help keep the cords hidden and prevent tripping.

Plastic Shims for DIY Projects

Woodworking Projects

Keeping your tools level and squared while woodworking is crucial, and Wobble Wedges® are great for this task! They can also help keep items stable while you work. Wobble Wedge® soft/flexible plastic shims can be used to protect wooden projects while clamping or using a vice. Learn more about how Wobble Wedges® come in handy in the woodshop on our blog “Wobble Wedges® for Woodworking”.

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How to Fix Loose Legs on Antique Furniture

How to Fix Loose Legs on Antique Furniture

An Easy Solution That Doesn’t Cause Damage

If you have an antique piece of furniture that has loose legs, it can make this delicate item unstable and less useful. If you bump it items can fall or roll off, and over time it can damage the table further. Obviously the easiest solution is to tighten any loose screws or bolts that might be the issue. But if that doesn’t work or you are dealing with all wood joinery, here’s an easy solution to fix loose legs on antique furniture.

Why Not Use New Screws/Nails or Glue?

Since we’re dealing with an antique piece of furniture, we don’t want to damage it by using modern screws or nails to fix this problem. Using glue would also not be a good idea, as modern glues are often stronger than wood, and can actually cause damage to the piece. Ultimately we don’t want to diminish its historical value. This is why we recommend shimming it with Wobble Wedge® soft plastic shims.

What’s the Advantage of Using Wobble Wedges®?

The soft plastic of Wobble Wedges® won’t dent or mark the wood of the item. Since they are a tapered shim they will fill the gap that is causing the leg to be loose. And since the soft plastic shims will be wedged in, they will use the force of the two pieces of wood to hold them in place. Soft Mini Wobble Wedge® plastic shims are also clear, so they’ll blend in, so no one will notice the repair. The plastic shims will also be entirely removable, for instance if you decide to take it to a restorer. Or if you sell the piece, and the new owner wishes to get it restored. This will result in the best preservation of the antique furniture item.

Find Which Leg is Loose

Place a towel or blanket on the floor and flip the table or furniture item over so that the legs are sticking up. Gently move each leg until you determine which one is loose. Inspect the joint to make sure there isn’t a screw you could tighten to fix the problem. Using a small brush or cloth clean any debris that might have accumulated in the joint if possible.

fix loose legs on antique furniture, shim any loose joints with soft Mini Wobble Wedges

Shim with Mini Wobble Wedges®

Take your soft Mini Wobble Wedge® plastic shims and place one or more into the space of the joint. If you can fit one plastic shim on each side of the joint, this will keep the leg centered. If there isn’t space for two, that means the gap is small enough that it probably won’t show as uneven. Shim any other loose joints on the piece. Gently move the legs to make sure they are now stable.

fix loose legs on antique furniture, use plastic to protect the wood, cut off excess shim with exact-o knife

Trim The Excess From the Plastic Shims

Find a piece of plastic that’s thick enough that your blade won’t cut through it. Or double up the plastic so you won’t damage the furniture. Place this piece of plastic between the plastic shims and the wood of the antique furniture. This will protect the wood from being damaged while you cut the excess plastic shims. Using gentle strokes, carefully score and cut the shims so that they are flush. Violà, you can now fix the loose legs on your antique furniture!

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The Best Plastic Shims for Plumbers

The Best Plastic Shims for Plumbers

Made from Durable Plastic, Wobble Wedges® are Perfect for Plumbers

When we designed Wobble Wedges® we had plumbers in mind! Our plastic shims are ideal for use in bathrooms and wet-rooms, as they won’t warp or deteriorate or cause discoloration if they come into contact with water. Our soft plastic shims are strong enough to provide stability, while also soft enough to be used with porcelain to prevent cracking. Read on to learn why Wobble Wedges® are the best plastic shims for plumbers.

The Perfect Toilet Shim

Whether you’re fixing a wobbly toilet or installing a brand new toilet, Wobble Wedge® toilet shims are perfect for this job. Made of a soft, durable plastic they are firm enough to level a toilet, while providing cushion to the porcelain, preventing cracks. Other methods of shimming (pennies, wooden shims, hard plastic shims, etc.) have their downsides. For instance, being too firm and potentially cracking the delicate porcelain. While wooden shims can rot from water damage. Soft plastic Wobble Wedge® toilet shims won’t have these issues, they are unaffected to water and flexible enough to not cause cracks. Just a few of the reasons why we think Wobble Wedges® are the best plastic shims for plumbers.

To read about using Wobble Wedge® toilet shims to install a new toilet read our blog “How to Install a New Toilet.” And to read about using our toilet shims to fix a wobbly toilet check out our blog “How to Fix a Wobbly Toilet.”

Plastic Shims for Plumbers, ideal for installing toilets

Ideal for Bathtub Installation

While installing a porcelain bathtub you often have to shim it to bring it to level and facilitate good drainage. Just like with toilets, porcelain bathtubs can crack if they are shimmed with a hard, rigid wedge. This is why we suggest Wobble Wedge® soft plastic shims for all projects that involve porcelain. Read more on our blog post “Installing a Bathtub” to learn how to use Wobble Wedges® for this task.

Great for Shower Enclosure Installation

As we’ve mentioned before, Wobble Wedge® plastic shims are ideal for bathroom projects. The plastic won’t warp or deteriorate and won’t cause discoloration from water. This is why they’re perfect for bathrooms and wet-rooms. We believe that our shims offer the stability and durability that plumbers are looking for in a plastic shim. There are several points while installing a shower enclosure that you might have to use shims. Read our blog “How to Install a Shower Enclosure” to see how Wobble Wedge® plastic shims can be used during installation.

Level Bathroom Vanities

If you’re installing a bathroom vanity, Wobble Wedges® can come in handy for this task too. They come in three sizes, BigGaps™ that are .48” high, Standards at .25” high, and Minis at .16” high. With all of these sizes they can be used for many different bathroom tasks. They can also be conveniently stacked, and will stay put, thanks to their patented interlocking ridges. Use Wobble Wedges® to level a bathroom vanity, as well as shim the back of it. Read more on our blog post “Leveling a Bathroom Vanity.”

Plastic Shims for Plumbers

Stabilize Washing Machines

If you’re fixing a washing machine and notice that it’s unbalanced, our shims can help! If the feet on the machine aren’t adjustable, or are stripped, Wobble Wedge® plastic shims allow you to stabilize the machine. Obviously this isn’t a permanent fix. But if your client doesn’t want to pay for you to remove the foot or replace the machine, a hard plastic Wobble Wedge® will fix the problem. To learn more about using Wobble Wedges® to level washing machines, check out our blog “How to Level a Washing Machine.”

Our shims come in two types, hard and soft plastic. Hard shims are ideal for heavy objects, taking +2,000 lbs of force. Both types of shims can be combined, because the interlocking ridges will stay together when stacked. Learn how hard and soft plastic Wobble Wedges® can work together on our blog “Hard & Soft Plastic Shims Work Together.” This versatility means they are the ideal plastic shim for plumbers.

Stop Rattling Pipes

If you’re looking for a quick fix for rattling pipes, our soft plastic Wobble Wedges® come in handy! Because they are made from a flexible plastic, they can bend around a pipe going through a joist to cushion it, stopping the rattle. They can also be used to pad pipe hangers or appliance lines if they vibrate and make noise. Learn more on our blog “Silence Rattling Pipes.”

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How to Install a Shower Enclosure

How to install a shower enclosure

Plastic Shims Are Perfect For Use in Bathrooms

Installing a shower enclosure is a great way to update your bathroom and improve the value of your home. While installing you will need to use shims to make sure that the unit is level. We highly recommend using Wobble Wedge® plastic shims because they are water resistant. They won’t rot or breakdown over time, making them ideal for use in bathrooms. Here’s how to install a shower enclosure with Wobble Wedge® plastic shims:

How to Install a Shower Enclosure

These instructions assume you have removed your old shower/tub, have chosen the correct size insert for your space, and have an empty opening ready for installing the new shower. Please note that you should always follow the manufacturer’s instructions that came with the shower enclosure. 

  • Verify the level of the subfloor and walls. It is particularly important that the floor is level so that the shower will drain properly. Ripping out the subfloor and installing new so that it’s level is a good idea if it’s very uneven. Wobble Wedge® hard plastic shims can be used to correct any variations in the subflooring by placing them on the studs under the subflooring. When screwing down the subfloor, be sure to place screws in the same locations as the plastic shims to keep them in place. If it’s close to level, you can do some additional leveling during the shower pan installation.
  • Rough in the drain line and plumbing for the showerhead and control valve on one side of the shower wall.
  • Now it’s time to dry fit! Place the shower base into position and check for level on all sides. Add Wobble Wedge® soft plastic shims as necessary to bring it up to level. Tape the plastic shims into place. It is also recommended to place a piece of cardboard in the shower base to protect the finish while you work.
  • Once the base is level, mark the top edge of the base with a pencil on the studs along all three sides of the alcove. Now we’ll dry fit the walls. Start with the back wall of the shower, gently place it in position, locking the bottom tabs into the base. Hold it in place with tape so you can position the side walls.
  • Lock the side wall in place (the one without the plumbing fixtures). To fit the third wall you will first need to cut the holes for the plumbing fixtures. Measure the distance from the edge of the back wall panel to the center of the valve, now measure from the center of the value to the top of the shower base panel. Transfer these measurements to your third wall panel. 
  • Place the third panel on a flat surface to cut out the holes. You will want to use a hole saw for this, and make sure that the size of hole you are cutting is smaller than the cover plate for the fixtures. Drilling from the finished side will give you a cleaner cut. Once you’ve cut the holes, dry fit the third wall in place.
  • Verify the level of the walls of the shower enclosure. If they aren’t level, place soft plastic Wobble Wedge® shims behind the panels along the studs to bring it to level. Tape the plastic shims in place (you will nail them into place later). You can trim the plastic shims with snips or a knife to the right size if needed. Once it’s level, mark the top of the flange (the top of the wall where the nails will hold the walls to the studs) on all the studs around the walls. Carefully remove the walls and shower base.
  • If there are low spots on the subfloor, you can place gypsum plaster or bricklayer’s mortar on the low spots of the subfloor. Now place the shower base back into the alcove, remove the cardboard. Recheck it for level, adding any additional plastic shims as necessary. Make sure it’s correctly positioned over the drain. Using silicone caulk, apply a bead to the space between the shower pan and the drain and around the lip of the underside of the drain flange. Screw the flange into the drain and install the strainer into the drain, tightening both in place.
  • Now we’ll secure the shower base into place. Pre-drill holes around the flange and into every stud. Use roofing nails to attach the shower base to the studs. Place the cardboard back into the base to protect it while you finish installation.
  • Now place the back wall into place, locking it into the shower base. Pre-drill holes through the flange along every stud at the top and down the vertical side flanges, 8 inches on center for the sides. Secure the wall to the studs with galvanized roofing nails. Be sure that the nails go through your Wobble Wedge® plastic shims that you’ve placed along the studs, this will secure them in place. Repeat these steps with the side wall without plumbing fixtures.
  • Fit the third wall in place, verifying that all plumbing fixtures line-up properly. Repeat the pre-drilling and nailing as in the previous step.
  • Now to sealing, one of the most important steps to prevent leaks and moisture issues. Consult the manufacturer’s instructions for sealing the unit. Some enclosures will require caulking, some will not. 
  • You’re almost done! Install water-resistant green board on the rest of the walls in the bathroom. It should overlap the flange on all sides, but leave a ⅛ inch gap to allow for caulk. Prime and paint the walls, and caulk the gaps between the drywall and the flange. Now install the fixtures and trim pieces per the manufacturer’s instructions.
  • Congrats! You can now install a shower enclosure!

PLEASE NOTE: Follow any manufacturer instructions that come with your shower enclosure kit.

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Installing a Bathtub

Installing a bathtub

Wobble Wedge® Plastic Shims Are Ideal for Bathroom Projects

When installing a new bathtub you will likely need to shim it so that it’s level. Wobble Wedge® plastic shims are perfect for bathroom projects because they won’t be affected by water. Here’s how to install a new porcelain bathtub:

  • Be sure to protect the inside and front of the porcelain while installing the bathtub with portions of the cardboard box it came in. 
  • Next you will want to make sure the subfloor is as flat as possible. Consider  tearing out the subfloor and replacing it if it’s particularly warped or uneven. Tubs often come with sound deadening and leveling pads for the underside. These will need to make full contact with the subfloor.
  • Using skids, place your bathtub into position. Check it for level, in all directions, as well as vertically. Shim the tub as necessary with Wobble Wedge® plastic shims. Our soft plastic shims won’t damage the porcelain of the tub. Wobble Wedge® plastic shims can be stacked thanks to their patented interlocking ridges, so you can stack them to fill any space. Our plastic shims are ideal for bathroom projects, as the durable plastic shims won’t rot, warp or be affected by moisture.
  • Once the tub is level, you will want to mark a reference line on the studs on all three sides of the tub. Then gently take out the tub and set it aside. To keep your plastic shims in place, you can tape them down to the subfloor.
  • Measure the height of the flange on the top of the tub, this measurement shows you how far down you need to place the stringer on the studs. The stringer will carry the weight of the bathtub.  Using the measurement you just took, mark the studs below your first reference marks on the studs. This indicates where the top of the stringer will sit.
  • Cut a 2×4 the length of your tub, screw the stringer into place along the lower reference mark.
  • Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for installing the drain. Work plumber’s putty in your hands into a snake and place it along the underside of the drain flange.
  • Place the drain shoe on the underside of the bathtub and screw the drain flange in place. Secure it fully with the drain tool, and remove any excess putty.
  • Now connect the overflow valve. Insert the rubber gasket into the overflow elbow, then place it behind the tub. Install the cover plate on the inside of the tub and attach it to the overflow elbow and gasket. Take the overflow pipe and drain pipe and make a tee connection between them. If your tub has a drain strainer, attach it now to the drain.
  • We’re almost done with installing the bathtub! Very carefully move the bathtub along the skids back into position. Be cautious to not move or knock the drain assembly. Once it’s in position the flange should rest on the stringer that you attached along the back wall of the tub.
  • Verify that the drain and overflow pipe aligns with the drain outlet in your bathroom. Connect the pipe from the tub to the drain outlet and tighten, be careful to not over-tighten.
  • Make sure the top of the tub meets the reference lines that you drew earlier on the studs. If not you can add more Wobble Wedge® plastic shims to bring the tub up to level. Once it’s level, attach the tub flange to the studs with roofing nails. The wider head of the nails will hold the flange in place, DO NOT use screws for this. Nail all the way around the tub, even down the front sides into the studs.
  • Now your tub is installed! The last component is the spout and attaching the water lines. You are now ready to install drywall, tile, baseboards, finishing moulding, and whatever other design elements you want to include. Be sure to wait 24hrs before using the tub to make sure all of the seals have fully set.

PLEASE NOTE: Follow any manufacturer instructions that came with your bathtub.

Add Wobble Wedge® plastic shims to your toolkit today!